Akumaki

Akumaki (Rolled Kuzu Jelly Wagashi)

Akumaki is a traditional Tōhoku winter confection built from two thin layers of kuzu-starch jelly rolled into a log and sliced to reveal a pastel spiral. Genuine kuzu starch gives the characteristic clear, glossy set; substitute starches will work but produce a softer, more opaque result.

Prep

15 min

Cook

15 min

Total

30 min

Serves

10–12 slices

Difficulty

Medium

Recipe ingredients

• •30 g (1 oz) kuzu starch, true kuzu (Pueraria lobata) for the clearest jelly; arrowroot or potato starch will work but give a softer, cloudier set
• •500 ml (2 cups + 1 tbsp) water, divided
• •120 g (½ cup + 1 tbsp) fine granulated sugar
• •2 g (½ tsp) finely grated yuzu peel, or fine zest of yuzu; substitute a mix of lemon and mandarin zest if yuzu is unavailable
• •2 g (½ tsp) pink or pale green food colouring, traditional natural option: a few drops of sabazuke-pink (red shiso) or a pinch of matcha; gel-paste colour gives a cleaner spiral
• •5 g (1 tsp) neutral oil, for greasing the pan and sheet

Steps

1. 1 Lightly oil a 22 × 28 cm (9 × 11 in) rimmed sheet pan and line the base with parchment brushed with a little more oil.
2. 2 Make the outer (plain) layer: in a small saucepan whisk 20 g kuzu starch with 200 ml (¾ cup + 1 tbsp) of the water until completely smooth with no lumps. Add 60 g (¼ cup) of the sugar and the grated yuzu peel. Cook over medium-low heat, whisking constantly, until the mixture turns translucent and thickens to a glossy, slow-pouring paste, about 3–4 minutes. Do not let it boil hard or it will lose clarity.
3. 3 Pour the plain jelly onto the prepared pan and tilt to form an even rectangle about 3 mm (⅛ in) thick. Let cool at room temperature until just barely warm and firm enough to handle, 10–15 minutes. (Tōhoku winter air helps; in a warm kitchen, slide the pan into the fridge for 5 minutes.)
4. 4 Make the inner (coloured) layer: in the rinsed saucepan whisk the remaining 10 g kuzu starch with 100 ml (scant ½ cup) water until smooth. Add the remaining 60 g sugar and 2–3 drops of pink or pale green food colouring. Cook over medium-low heat, whisking constantly, until translucent and thickened, about 3 minutes.
5. 5 Pour the coloured jelly directly over the set plain layer and tilt to cover evenly to the same 3 mm thickness. Cool until just barely warm and pliable, another 10 minutes; do not chill until fully hard or it will crack when rolled.
6. 6 To roll: loosen both layers from the parchment with a thin knife. Using the long edge closest to you, lift the edge of the parchment and gently roll the jelly into a tight log about 5 cm (2 in) in diameter, peeling the parchment away as you go. Press the seam gently to seal.
7. 7 Wrap the log tightly in plastic wrap and refrigerate until completely firm and sliceable, at least 2 hours or overnight.
8. 8 To serve: unwrap and trim the ends. With a thin, sharp knife wiped clean between cuts, slice into 1.5–2 cm (⅝–¾ in) coins to show the spiral. Serve chilled with hot green tea.
9. 9 Doneness cues for the cooked jellies: the starch is fully hydrated when the mixture turns from milky to glassy/translucent and a spoon leaves a clean trail on the bottom of the pan for a second before the jelly flows back. If it still looks chalky or white, keep cooking 30 seconds at a time.