Antojitos

Antojitos literally means "little cravings" in Mexican Spanish and is the umbrella term for a wide family of inexpensive street foods sold from market stalls, night-market carts, and small fondas across Mexico. Most antojitos share a masa (corn-dough) base, are cooked fresh to order on a comal or in hot oil, and are served with a few fresh salsas, a scatter of chopped onion and cilantro, and a wedge of lime. They are the everyday food of the country, eaten at any time of day from a mid-morning merienda to a late-night botana with beer.

The most familiar antojitos are tacos, quesadillas, sopes, gorditas, tlacoyos, huaraches, pambazos, salbutes, panuchos, and chalupas, but the category also includes gringas, picadas, and tlaxcalas. Each region puts its own stamp on the format: the Yucatán adds cochinita pibil and salbutes, Oaxaca layers memelas and tetelas, Puebla claims cemitas and molotes, and Mexico City alone runs to several dozen distinct antojito styles. Tortillas are sometimes made on the spot from freshly nixtamalized maize, which gives the finished plate a deeper corn flavor and a softer chew.

Antojitos are best eaten standing up at a market counter or at a plastic table on the sidewalk, often with a cold agua fresca, an horchata, or a michelada. Look for stalls with a high turnover of masa, a bubbling pot of oil, and a salsa bar that is being actively refilled; the combination is a fair guarantee that the food has not been sitting around. Markets such as Mexico City's Mercado de San Juan and Mercado de Jamaica, Oaxaca's Mercado 20 de Noviembre, and Mérida's Lucas de Gálvez are classic places to make a meal of several antojitos at once.