Biryani

Hyderabadi-Style Mutton Biryani (Dum Method)

A celebratory layered rice and marinated mutton biryani from Hyderabad, where raw meat and par-cooked basmati are sealed in a heavy pot and slow-steamed in their own fragrant steam until every grain of rice is separate, perfumed with saffron, and stained gold.

Prep

45 min

Cook

90 min

Total

135 min

Serves

6

Difficulty

Hard

Recipe ingredients

• •1 kg (2.2 lb) bone-in mutton (goat), shoulder or leg, cut into 4 cm pieces; lamb shoulder is the closest substitute outside India
• •750 g (1.65 lb) basmati rice, aged Indian basmati if possible; rinse until water runs clear
• •200 g (7 oz) plain full-fat yoghurt
• •2 large red onions, thinly sliced and fried until deep golden for birista
• •60 ml (1/4 cup) ginger-garlic paste, freshly grated, equal parts ginger and garlic
• •4 green chillies fresh green chillies, slit lengthwise; adjust to heat preference
• •1 large bunch fresh mint leaves
• •1 large bunch fresh coriander leaves
• •3 tbsp lemon juice, freshly squeezed
• •1 tsp turmeric powder
• •2 tsp Kashmiri red chilli powder, for colour, not heat; paprika is the closest substitute
• •3 tbsp biryani masala powder, store-bought, or a homemade blend of fennel, cumin, coriander, clove, cardamom, cinnamon and star anise
• •1 pinch saffron threads, bloomed in 60 ml warm milk
• •60 ml (1/4 cup) warm milk, for blooming saffron
• •150 ml (2/3 cup) ghee or neutral oil, divided; ghee preferred for flavour
• •1 whole cinnamon stick (5 cm)
• •4 whole green cardamom pods, lightly crushed
• •2 whole black cardamom pods
• •4 whole cloves
• •2 whole bay leaves
• •1 tsp shahi jeera (caraway seeds), cumin seeds are the closest substitute
• •500 ml (2 cups) water for rice, plus extra for soaking and boiling
• •1 tbsp salt, divided; adjust to taste
• •1 small lump wheat dough, for sealing the pot in the dum stage

Steps

1. 1 Marinate the mutton: combine the mutton pieces, yoghurt, half the fried onions (birista), half the ginger-garlic paste, slit green chillies, half the mint and coriander, lemon juice, turmeric, Kashmiri chilli powder and biryani masala. Mix thoroughly, cover and refrigerate for at least 2 hours, ideally overnight.
2. 2 Soak the basmati rice in plenty of cold water for 30 minutes, then drain.
3. 3 Par-cook the rice: bring a large pot of water to a rolling boil with the whole cinnamon, cardamoms, cloves, bay leaves, shahi jeera and 1 tsp salt. Add the drained rice and cook for 5 to 7 minutes, until the grains are still firm but a grain pressed between the fingers breaks with no raw core. Drain immediately in a colander and set aside.
4. 4 Brown the mutton first: heat half the ghee in a heavy, tight-lidded pot (a Dutch oven or traditional handi) over medium-high heat. Add the remaining ginger-garlic paste and fry briefly, then lift the mutton pieces out of the marinade, keeping the marinade aside, and sear them in batches for 6 to 8 minutes, turning, until browned on all sides. Insert a probe thermometer into the thickest piece, away from the bone, and keep searing until every piece reads at least 71 C (160 F). Do not crowd the pot.
5. 5 Add the reserved marinade and 250 ml (1 cup) water, bring to a simmer, cover and cook over low heat for 10 to 15 minutes, just until the gravy thickens and coats the meat. The Hyderabadi kacchi method is designed so the meat finishes during the dum stage; do not cook it fully here.
6. 6 Layer the biryani: scatter a third of the par-cooked rice over the meat, then a layer of the remaining fried onions, fresh mint and coriander, and a drizzle of ghee. Repeat with another third of the rice and aromatics, then finish with the final third of rice. Pour the saffron-milk evenly over the top so the rice is stained in streaks. Drizzle the remaining ghee around the edges of the pot.
7. 7 Seal and steam (dum): make a ring of wheat dough around the rim of the pot and press the lid firmly onto it so the seal is airtight. Place the pot on a flat tawa (chapati griddle) or a heavy skillet over the lowest possible flame for 35 to 45 minutes. The tawa diffuses the heat and prevents scorching.
8. 8 Check the meat: lift a few pieces to the top of the rice with a spoon and probe the thickest part of each one, away from the bone, with a thermometer. Mutton on the bone must reach at least 71 C (160 F) and poultry-style rules do not apply here, but for a tender dum biryani most cuts will read 85 to 90 C (185 to 195 F). If any piece is below 71 C (160 F), push it toward the centre of the pot, reseal and steam another 15 minutes, then probe again before serving. Juices should run clear with no pink near the bone.
9. 9 Rest the biryani off the heat, still sealed, for 10 minutes. Break the dough seal, gently mix from the bottom upwards so the layers combine without breaking the rice grains, and serve hot with raita, mirchi ka salan and a wedge of lime.