Risotto alla Milanese

Risotto alla Milanese

The iconic saffron-golden risotto of Milan, traditionally served alongside osso buco. Slow stirring and a final mantecatura off the heat are what give it the signature glossy, wave-on-the-plate creaminess.

Prep

10 min

Cook

20 min

Total

30 min

Serves

4

Difficulty

Medium

Recipe ingredients

• •320 g (1½ cups (about 11¼ oz)) Carnaroli rice, traditionally Carnaroli; Vialone Nano is the classic alternative. Arborio will work but gives a softer result
• •30 g (2 Tbsp) beef marrow (midollo), traditional; substitute 1 Tbsp unsalted beef tallow or extra butter for a home kitchen
• •30 g (2 Tbsp) unsalted butter, for the soffritto, plus 40 g (3 Tbsp) cold, cubed butter for mantecatura
• •1 small shallot, finely minced; a small white onion is the more traditional choice in Milan
• •120 ml (½ cup) dry white wine, unoaked, such as Soave or Pinot Bianco
• •1 L (about 4 cups) hot beef stock, kept at a bare simmer; chicken stock is a common home substitute
• •1 generous pinch (about 0.2 g / 1 tsp loosely packed) saffron threads, steeped in 60 ml (¼ cup) of the warm stock for at least 15 minutes before using
• •60 g (⅔ cup finely grated) Parmigiano-Reggiano, 24-month if possible; Grana Padano is acceptable
• •1 tsp fine sea salt, adjust depending on stock salinity
• •1 pinch freshly ground black pepper

Steps

1. 1 Warm the stock in a small saucepan and keep it at a low simmer throughout. Steep the saffron threads in about 60 ml (¼ cup) of the warm stock for at least 15 minutes so the colour and aroma fully release.
2. 2 In a heavy-bottomed pan (traditionally a copper risotto pan), melt the marrow with 30 g (2 Tbsp) butter over medium heat until the marrow has rendered and the foam subsides. Add the minced shallot and cook gently for 2–3 minutes until soft and translucent, not browned.
3. 3 Add the rice and stir with a wooden spoon for about 2 minutes, until the grains turn translucent at the edges and click against the pan - this tostatura step is essential for the final texture.
4. 4 Pour in the wine and stir until it has almost fully evaporated, about 1–2 minutes.
5. 5 Begin adding the hot stock a ladle at a time (about 100 ml / scant ½ cup), stirring frequently. Wait until each ladle is nearly absorbed before adding the next. After 8–10 minutes, stir in the saffron infusion along with its soaking liquid; the rice will turn a deep golden colour.
6. 6 Continue adding stock ladle by ladle and stirring for another 6–8 minutes. Taste a grain at 16 minutes: it should be al dente with a slight bite at the centre. Season with salt and pepper. Total cooking time is about 18 minutes from when the wine evaporated; the rice should be suspended in a loose, creamy sauce - if it tightens, add a final splash of stock.
7. 7 Remove the pan from the heat and let it rest for 30 seconds. Add the cold cubed butter and the grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, then beat vigorously with the wooden spoon for about 1 minute - this mantecatura emulsifies the butter and cheese into the starch, giving the risotto its glossy, all'onda consistency.
8. 8 Cover and let rest 1 minute, then serve immediately on warm plates. The risotto should ripple in a gentle wave when the plate is tapped - loose enough to flow, not stiff or dry. Traditionally served as a bed for osso buco.