Ulam

Ulam is a collective name for the raw or lightly blanched vegetables, shoots and herbs that form the traditional side dish to a Malay meal, served at room temperature in small piles alongside sambal, fish sauce or a simple dip of budu or cincalok. The word covers a wide range of plants — over 120 species are recognised, from ulam raja (the sweet-scented Cosmos caudatus) and pegaga (Centella asiatica) to petai (Parkia speciosa) beans, jering (Archidendron pauciflorum) and the bitter shoots of the cashew tree. A full ulam spread may include ferns, bamboo shoots, water mimosa, kesum leaf, winged bean, cucumber and banana flower, each with its own slightly bitter, peppery or cooling character.

Ulam is the everyday green of village and family meals in Malaysia, Singapore, southern Thailand and the Riau Islands of Indonesia, and is most often served with rice, sambal belacan, a fried or grilled fish and a hot broth such as sup tulang or singgang. The dish has also been linked to traditional Ayurvedic ideas about cooling and warming foods, and several species, including pegaga and daun kaduk, are used in herbal remedies for blood pressure and digestion. Across the Straits of Malacca, the same raw-vegetable spread is called lalap in Java and urap in Bali, and the same botanical list appears in raw and lightly cooked form at feasts in southern Thailand.