Antikristo

Antikristo (Cretan Cross-Roasted Lamb)

A traditional Cretan Easter preparation in which a whole young lamb is skewered on a long iron rod and suspended between two forked sticks before an open fire of olive wood, the meat turning slowly as the wood burns down. Only coarse sea salt and a brush of olive oil and lemon are used; the magic is in the hours of slow rotation and aromatic wood smoke.

Prep

60 min

Cook

300 min

Total

360 min

Serves

8-10

Difficulty

Hard

Recipe ingredients

• •6000 g (13¼ lb) whole young lamb, butchered into quarters, bone-in, ready to thread on a spit; about 4-6 kg is more practical for a home build
• •150 g (¾ cup) coarse sea salt, Cretan flake salt preferred
• •20 g (¼ cup loosely packed) dried wild oregano, Greek rigani, not Mediterranean oregano
• •120 ml (½ cup) extra-virgin olive oil, for brushing
• •2 whole lemons, juice, plus extra wedges to serve
• •5 kg (11 lb) olive wood branches, well-seasoned, the size of small logs; pistachio wood and wild thyme branches added for aroma if available
• •1200 g (2½ lb) waxy potatoes, scrubbed, cut into large chunks
• •800 g (1¾ lb) wild greens (horta), dandelion, chicory, amaranth or stinging nettle; spinach is a workable substitute
• •2 whole crusty country bread, for serving

Steps

1. 1 Build the antikristo frame. Drive two sturdy green forked sticks (about 1.5 m / 5 ft long) into the ground at a 60° angle so the forks form a V about 70 cm (28 in) off the ground, with the open notch of each fork facing the fire pit you have dug about 1 m (3 ft) in front of them. Lay a bed of dry olive wood in the pit.
2. 2 Prepare the lamb. Pat the pieces completely dry with cloth. Rub every surface generously with coarse sea salt, working it into the skin and any cavities, then dust with the dried oregano. There is no marinade: this is the only seasoning the meat will get.
3. 3 Thread the lamb. Push a long iron skewer (1.5-1.8 m / 5-6 ft) through the centre of each piece so the pieces sit side by side along the rod, the shanks facing outward. The rod should be long enough that at least 20 cm (8 in) sticks out on each end.
4. 4 Set the spit. Rest the two ends of the iron rod in the notches of the forked sticks so the lamb hangs parallel to the ground, about 40-50 cm (16-20 in) above the fire bed. This is the 'facing Christ' cross arrangement.
5. 5 Light the fire and begin roasting. Build a steady fire of olive wood, letting it burn down to glowing embers with low flames licking the meat. The lamb must be turned end for end every 20-30 minutes so each side faces the fire in turn; this is the heart of the antikristo method. Plan on 4-5 hours of total roasting for a 5-6 kg carcass.
6. 6 Start the potatoes after 90 minutes. Arrange the potato chunks in a wide, heavy foil tray, slide it under the rotating lamb, and let them cook in the dripping fat. Turn them with a spatula every 30 minutes so they brown evenly.
7. 7 Baste the lamb in the final hour. Mix the olive oil with the lemon juice and brush the exposed crust every 20 minutes; this builds the deep mahogany colour without masking the salt crust.
8. 8 Test for doneness. The lamb is ready when an instant-read thermometer inserted into the thickest part of the shoulder reads at least 75°C (165°F) for well-done, the traditional Cretan finish. The juices at the surface should run clear and the skin should be crackling and deeply browned, almost charred in places.
9. 9 Rest the meat. Lift the rod from the notches and rest the lamb on a wooden board for 15-20 minutes, tented loosely with foil, before carving with a long sharp knife.
10. 10 Meanwhile, cook the horta. Bring a large pot of generously salted water to a boil, add the greens, and boil 5-8 minutes until tender. Drain, squeeze out excess water, chop roughly, and dress with olive oil and a squeeze of lemon.
11. 11 Carve and serve. Carve the lamb into portions, serve with the dripping-roasted potatoes, the dressed horta, bread to mop the juices, and a village salad of tomato, cucumber and feta on the side.