Truffade

Truffade

A rustic potato and cheese pancake from the Auvergne region of France, traditionally cooked in a cast-iron skillet over an open fire. Cantal or Saint-Nectaire cheese melt through crisp layers of golden potato for a hearty, savory dish.

Prep

15 min

Cook

35 min

Total

50 min

Serves

4

Difficulty

Easy

Recipe ingredients

• •900 g (2 lb) waxy potatoes (e.g. Charlotte, BF15), traditionally Ratte or Belle de Fontenay; do not use floury potatoes or the pancake will fall apart
• •300 g (10½ oz) Cantal or Saint-Nectaire cheese, young, semi-soft Cantal preferred; rind scraped and cheese grated or sliced thin
• •30 g (2 Tbsp) duck fat or salted pork fat (graisse de canard), substitute with unsalted butter if unavailable
• •2 g (1 small clove) garlic, halved, for rubbing the pan; or null
• •1 g (to taste) fine sea salt
• •0.5 g (a few grinds) black pepper, freshly ground

Steps

1. 1 Peel the potatoes and slice them thinly (about 2–3 mm / ⅛ in), ideally on a mandoline. Keep slices in cold water briefly so they do not brown, then drain and pat very dry - excess water is the main enemy of a crisp truffade.
2. 2 Rub the inside of a 26–28 cm (10–11 in) cast-iron skillet with the cut garlic clove, then discard the garlic.
3. 3 Add the duck or pork fat to the pan and heat over medium until melted and just shimmering. Add the potato slices in an even layer, season with salt and pepper, and toss to coat. Spread back into a flat layer.
4. 4 Cover and cook gently over medium-low heat for 18–20 minutes, turning the potatoes occasionally with a wooden spoon so they cook evenly without breaking. The potatoes are ready when a slice yields easily to the edge of a spoon and is tender all the way through (no raw, starchy center).
5. 5 Scatter the grated or sliced cheese evenly over the potatoes. Using a spatula, gently press the mixture into a compact round pancake and cook, uncovered, for 3–4 minutes until the cheese melts and binds the potatoes.
6. 6 Increase the heat slightly and cook 2–3 minutes more without stirring to build a deep golden, crisp crust on the bottom. To check, lift an edge with a spatula - it should be richly browned, not pale.
7. 7 Slide the truffade onto a warm plate, browned side up. Some cooks flip it onto a second plate and slide it back to brown the other side; this is optional. Serve immediately while the cheese is still molten, traditionally with a green salad and a slice of cured ham (jambon d'Auvergne) on the side.