Mojama de Isla Cristina

Mojama de Isla Cristina (Cured Tuna Loin)

Mojama is a centuries-old Andalusian specialty from Isla Cristina in Huelva, made by salt-curing and air-drying the loins of Atlantic bluefin tuna until they become a dense, ruby-red delicacy. It is eaten paper-thin, drizzled with good extra-virgin olive oil and served with toasted bread or almonds.

Prep

60 min

Total

60 min

Serves

8-10 as an appetizer

Difficulty

Hard

Recipe ingredients

• •2 kg (4½ lb) fresh bluefin tuna loins (sashimi-grade), the two long dorso-lateral loins, skin and bloodline removed; see parasite note in steps
• •400 g (14 oz) coarse sea salt, for the salt cure
• •30 ml (2 tbsp) extra-virgin olive oil, for sealing, plus more for serving
• •1 baguette rustic country bread, to serve, optional
• •50 g (1¾ oz) Marcona almonds, to serve, optional

Steps

1. 1 Choose two fresh, sashimi-grade bluefin tuna loins (the two long muscles running along the back). Keep them very cold and work in a cool room (ideally below 15 °C / 59 °F) so the fish stays below the food-safety danger zone throughout curing.
2. 2 PARASITE SAFETY (required, not optional): because this dish is served essentially raw after curing, the tuna MUST first be frozen at -20 °C / -4 °F or below for at least 7 consecutive days (or -35 °C / -31 °F for 15+ hours) to destroy parasites. Do this BEFORE you begin the salt cure. Thaw in the refrigerator only once you are ready to proceed.
3. 3 Pat the thawed loins dry with paper towels. They should feel firm, bright red and smell of the sea, nothing else.
4. 4 Weigh the loins so you can calculate salt: use roughly 200 g of coarse sea salt per 1 kg of tuna (about 20% of the loin's weight). A light, even sprinkle is enough; you are not burying the fish.
5. 5 Lay one loin in a deep glass or stainless tray. Sprinkle salt over it, rub it in gently with gloved hands until the surface is uniformly coated, then flip and coat the other side. Repeat with the second loin in a separate tray.
6. 6 Cover and refrigerate at 4 °C / 39 °F for 24 hours. The salt will draw out a lot of liquid; turn the loins once at the 12-hour mark and redistribute the wet salt.
7. 7 After 24 hours, rinse the loins very briefly under cold running water to remove surface salt, then pat completely dry with clean cloths. The flesh should feel noticeably firmer.
8. 8 Brush each loin all over with a thin coat of extra-virgin olive oil; this slows drying and gives the characteristic smooth, glossy surface.
9. 9 Thread each loin with a skewer or hang with butcher's twine through the thick end, then suspend them in a cool, dry, well-ventilated place (a cellar, pantry, or wine fridge set around 14-16 °C / 57-61 °F with low humidity is ideal). Cover loosely with cheesecloth to keep insects off.
10. 10 Dry for 4 to 6 weeks, depending on thickness and humidity. The traditional 'punta' (smaller loin) is ready in about 25-30 days; the larger 'contra' needs 35-45 days. The mojama is done when it has lost roughly 40-50% of its original weight, feels rock-hard on the outside, and is deep mahogany-red when sliced.
11. 11 To eat, shave with a long sharp knife (or a slicing machine) into paper-thin slices. Drizzle with extra-virgin olive oil and serve with toasted bread and Marcona almonds, or with hard-boiled egg and tomato as in Isla Cristina.
12. 12 Once fully cured, wrap tightly and store in the refrigerator; whole mojama keeps for many months. Once sliced, eat within a few days.