Pesto alla Genovese

Pesto alla Genovese (mortar method) with Trofie, Potato and Green Beans

The classic basil pesto from Genoa, pounded by hand in a marble mortar and tossed with handmade trofie, boiled potato and green beans — the traditional Ligurian combination that softens the pesto's intensity and makes a complete first course.

Prep

30 min

Cook

15 min

Total

45 min

Serves

4

Difficulty

Medium

Recipe ingredients

• •60 g (2 oz (about 2 cups loosely packed)) fresh Genovese basil leaves, young, small leaves with no black spots; washed and thoroughly dried
• •30 g (1 oz (about 3 tbsp)) pine nuts, Ligurian if you can find them; lightly toasted in a dry pan until just fragrant, then cooled
• •20 g (2 cloves) garlic, young pink garlic from Genova is ideal; otherwise use fresh mild garlic, peeled, green germ removed
• •1 tsp coarse sea salt, plus more for the pasta water
• •40 g (1½ oz (about ⅓ cup grated)) Pecorino Romano DOP, finely grated at the last moment
• •20 g (¾ oz (about 3 tbsp grated)) Parmigiano Reggiano DOP, finely grated at the last moment
• •100 ml (scant ½ cup (about 7 tbsp)) extra-virgin olive oil, mild, grassy Ligurian oil if possible; avoid peppery robust oils that overwhelm the basil
• •400 g (14 oz) trofie pasta, or trenette or another short, twisted dried pasta if fresh trofie are unavailable
• •200 g (7 oz (about 2 medium)) waxy potatoes, e.g. Yukon Gold; peeled and cut into 2 cm (¾ in) cubes
• •150 g (5 oz) flat green beans (snap or romano), trimmed and cut into 4 cm (1½ in) pieces

Steps

1. 1 Wash the basil in cool water, dry it very thoroughly between clean kitchen towels, and pick off the smaller, more tender leaves — they carry the best aroma. This step is essential: any water on the leaves will dilute and discolor the pesto.
2. 2 In a marble mortar, place the garlic and the 1 tsp of coarse salt. Pound with the pestle in a circular motion until you have a smooth, creamy paste. (The salt acts as an abrasive and breaks the garlic down quickly.)
3. 3 Add the pine nuts and pound gently with a rotating motion just until they are coarsely broken and blended into the garlic — do not reduce them to a powder; a little texture is correct.
4. 4 Add a small handful of basil leaves at a time. Press against the mortar with the pestle using a slow, firm circular motion, crushing the leaves against the salt and releasing their oil. Let each handful become a dark green, fragrant paste before adding the next. Continue until all the basil is incorporated.
5. 5 Dilute the paste by stirring in the grated Pecorino Romano and Parmigiano Reggiano with the pestle, working in a circular motion until the cheese disappears into the basil.
6. 6 Slowly pour in the extra-virgin olive oil in a thin stream, stirring constantly with the pestle in the same circular direction, until the pesto is a smooth, glossy, vivid emerald sauce. Do not overwork it — it should look emulsified but not greasy. Taste and adjust salt. Set aside at room temperature; do not refrigerate (cold dulls the basil aroma).
7. 7 Bring 4 liters (about 1 gallon) of water to a rolling boil in a wide pot. Salt it generously — about 10 g (1½ tbsp) of coarse salt per liter, so the water tastes like the sea. Add the cubed potatoes first and cook 5 minutes before adding the green beans. After another 4 minutes, add the trofie (fresh) or wait 3 minutes more (dried).
8. 8 Cook until the trofie are al dente and the potatoes and beans are tender: fresh trofie about 4–5 minutes total, dried pasta about 9–11 minutes from the bean addition. Test by biting — the trofie should be tender with a slight bite; the potato should yield to a skewer without resistance.
9. 9 Reserve about 250 ml (1 cup) of the pasta water, then drain the pasta, potatoes and beans together — do not rinse.
10. 10 Tip the hot pasta and vegetables into a wide warmed bowl. Add the pesto and toss vigorously, loosening with splashes of the reserved pasta water as needed, until every strand and cube is coated in a glossy green sauce (you will use about ¾ of the pesto; store the rest in a jar with a thin film of olive oil on top, refrigerated, up to 5 days).
11. 11 Serve immediately in warmed shallow bowls, finishing with a light drizzle of raw extra-virgin olive oil and a few small whole basil leaves. Do not add cheese on top at the table — the pesto is already seasoned.