Gulai

Gulai Ayam (Indonesian Chicken Stew)

A rich, aromatic coconut-chicken stew from the Minangkabau highlands of West Sumatra, where rendang and gulai were born. Warming, gently spicy, and built on a fresh spice paste that is the soul of the dish.

Prep

35 min

Cook

60 min

Total

95 min

Serves

4 to 6

Difficulty

Medium

Recipe ingredients

• •900 g (2 lb) bone-in chicken thighs and drumsticks, skin on, for flavor
• •800 ml (3½ cups) full-fat coconut milk, well shaken; do not substitute 'lite'
• •250 ml (1 cup) water
• •120 g (4 oz) shallots, roughly chopped
• •60 g (about 4 cloves) garlic
• •30 g (1 oz (about 1-inch piece)) fresh ginger, peeled, sliced
• •20 g (2 cm piece) fresh galangal, substitute: an extra 1-inch piece of ginger plus 1 tsp lime zest
• •15 g (2 to 3 large) fresh red chilies, seeded for milder; serrano or Fresno work
• •15 g (1 Tbsp) fresh turmeric, or 1 tsp ground turmeric
• •10 g (1 Tbsp) candlenuts, substitute: 2 Tbsp raw cashews + 1 Tbsp macadamia
• •5 g (1 tsp) coriander seeds, toasted
• •3 g (1 tsp) cumin seeds, toasted
• •2 g (1 tsp) white peppercorns
• •2 sticks lemongrass, outer leaves removed, smashed and tied
• •4 g (2 leaves) kaffir lime leaves, torn; substitute: 1 wide strip lime zest
• •2 Indonesian bay leaves (2 leaves) salam leaves, substitute: 2 regular bay leaves (different, but acceptable)
• •15 ml (1 Tbsp) vegetable oil
• •10 g (1 Tbsp) tamarind paste, from seedless block, soaked in 2 Tbsp hot water
• •6 g (1 tsp) fine sea salt, plus more to taste
• •10 g (1 Tbsp) sugar, palm sugar preferred; brown sugar works
• •200 g (7 oz) potato, cut into 3 cm / 1¼-inch wedges
• •30 g (¼ cup) fresh cilantro, leaves and tender stems, to finish
• •15 g sliced spring onion, to finish
• •300 g (10½ oz) jasmine rice, to serve

Steps

1. 1 Make the spice paste (bumbu halus): combine shallots, garlic, ginger, galangal, fresh chilies, fresh turmeric, candlenuts, toasted coriander, toasted cumin, and white peppercorns in a blender. Add 60 ml (¼ cup) of the coconut milk to help it blend. Process to a completely smooth paste, scraping down as needed; this can take 3–5 minutes. A coarse paste will not flavor the dish properly.
2. 2 Prepare the chicken: pat dry, then prick each piece all over with a fork (about 6 small pokes per piece). This helps the spice paste cling and the coconut milk penetrate.
3. 3 Heat the oil in a heavy pot or Dutch oven over medium heat. Add the spice paste and cook, stirring almost constantly, for 8–10 minutes until it darkens to a deep brick red, smells toasted, and a slick of red oil begins to separate from the paste. Do not rush this step; undercooked paste tastes raw.
4. 4 Add the chicken and stir to coat thoroughly. Cook for 5 minutes, turning, until the pieces turn opaque on the outside.
5. 5 Pour in the remaining coconut milk plus the 250 ml water, then add the lemongrass, kaffir lime leaves, salam leaves, tamarind liquid (strained), salt, and sugar. Stir well and bring to a gentle simmer.
6. 6 Skim any foam that rises. Simmer uncovered at a low, lazy bubble for 25 minutes, turning the chicken every 10 minutes. The sauce will reduce and the oil will split and rise to the surface — this is the characteristic look of gulai.
7. 7 Add the potato wedges, submerge them in the sauce, and simmer another 15 minutes until the potatoes are tender when pierced with a knife and the chicken is fully cooked.
8. 8 Doneness check: chicken must reach 75°C (165°F) at the thickest part, juices run clear, and the meat pulls easily from the bone. Potatoes should be easily pierced with a fork but not falling apart.
9. 9 Fish out and discard the lemongrass and salam leaves. Taste and adjust with more salt, sugar, or a squeeze of tamarind for brightness.
10. 10 Off the heat, let the gulai rest 5 minutes so the sauce settles. Scatter cilantro and spring onion over the top.
11. 11 Serve hot with jasmine rice and, traditionally, sambal hijau (green chili paste) on the side for those who want extra heat.