Gentleman's Relish

Gentleman's Relish (Patum Peperium)

A quintessentially British Victorian condiment, Gentleman's Relish is a salty, umami-packed paste of anchovies blended with butter and a hint of spice. Traditionally spread thinly on toast or used to enrich savoury dishes, it has been a British breakfast-table favourite since the 1820s.

Prep

10 min

Total

10 min

Serves

makes about 200 g (7 oz), serving roughly 16 as a condiment

Difficulty

Easy

Recipe ingredients

• •125 g (½ cup plus 1 tbsp) unsalted butter, softened to room temperature, or null
• •50 g (1¾ oz) anchovy fillets in oil, drained, British or Mediterranean; must be salt-cured or oil-packed, not null
• •1 tsp cayenne pepper, or freshly ground white pepper, or null
• •ground mace, ½, traditional Victorian spice, or nutmeg if unavailable, or null
• •freshly ground black pepper, ¼, or null
• •1 tsp lemon juice, optional, to lift the flavour, or null

Steps

1. 1 Pat the anchovy fillets thoroughly dry with kitchen paper; this is essential to prevent the finished paste from becoming watery.
2. 2 Using a mortar and pestle or the flat of a heavy knife, pound the anchovies to a completely smooth paste, scraping and re-pounding until no fibrous bits remain.
3. 3 In a small bowl, beat the softened butter with a wooden spoon until pale and creamy.
4. 4 Work the anchovy paste into the butter a spoonful at a time, beating well after each addition until fully incorporated.
5. 5 Stir in the cayenne, mace, black pepper and lemon juice (if using) until evenly distributed.
6. 6 Taste and adjust seasoning; the paste should be distinctly salty with a warm, lingering heat.
7. 7 Pack into a clean glass jar or earthenware pot, pressing down to remove air pockets, and smooth the top.
8. 8 Cover and refrigerate. The relish will keep for at least 4 weeks chilled; for longer storage, seal with a thin layer of melted butter over the surface.
9. 9 To serve, spread very thinly on hot buttered toast, on oatcakes, with cold roast beef, or stirred into beaten eggs for an omelette. A little goes a long way.