Pisarei

Pisarei e Fasò (Pisarei with Beans)

Pisarei are tiny, hand-rolled gnocchi-like pasta from the Piacenza area of Emilia-Romagna, traditionally served with a slow-cooked bean ragù. The breadcrumb-enriched dough gives them a tender yet slightly textured bite that holds the rich sauce beautifully.

Prep

30 min

Cook

45 min

Total

75 min

Serves

4

Difficulty

Medium

Recipe ingredients

• •250 g (8 oz) all-purpose flour, plus extra for dusting
• •60 g (½ cup) fine dry breadcrumbs, traditionally grated stale bread
• •120 ml (½ cup) warm water, plus more if needed
• •1 whole egg
• •20 g (1 tbsp) grated Parmigiano-Reggiano
• •1 g (¼ tsp) salt, for the dough
• •1 pinch grated nutmeg, optional, traditional
• •300 g (10½ oz) dried borlotti or cranberry beans, soaked overnight, or 400 g / 14 oz canned
• •1 whole small onion, halved
• •1 whole carrot
• •1 rib celery
• •60 ml (¼ cup) extra-virgin olive oil
• •80 g (⅓ cup) lard or pancetta, diced, traditionally lard
• •1 whole small onion, finely chopped, for the soffritto
• •1 clove garlic, optional
• •400 g (14 oz) canned peeled tomatoes, crushed, or passata
• •500 ml (2 cups) beef or vegetable stock, for thinning sauce
• •40 g (⅓ cup) grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, to finish
• •salt and freshly ground black pepper, to taste
• •1 small handful fresh sage leaves, optional, for finishing

Steps

1. 1 Make the ragù base: drain the soaked beans, place them in a pot with the halved onion, carrot, celery and a drizzle of olive oil. Cover with plenty of cold water, bring to a simmer and cook 40–60 minutes until very tender but still holding shape. Season lightly with salt near the end. Drain, reserving some cooking liquid, and remove the aromatic vegetables.
2. 2 Meanwhile make the pasta dough: mound the flour on a board (or in a bowl), add the breadcrumbs, egg, grated Parmigiano, salt and nutmeg. Pour in the warm water and mix with a fork, then knead by hand for 6–8 minutes until smooth and firm but not stiff; add a little extra water or flour as needed. The dough should feel like soft modelling clay. Wrap and rest 15 minutes.
3. 3 Shape the pisarei: pinch off small pieces of dough (about 5 g / the size of a chickpea) and roll each under the palm of your hand on a lightly floured wooden board, pressing down so each piece becomes a curved, ridged little crescent about 4 cm long. Traditional shape is like a small, fat curved thumb. Place on a floured tray; you should have 80–100 pieces.
4. 4 Build the fasò: in a wide pan, melt the lard (or warm the olive oil and add the pancetta). Add the finely chopped onion and garlic and cook gently 6–8 minutes until soft and golden. Add the crushed tomatoes and simmer 10 minutes. Stir in the cooked beans with a ladle of their cooking liquid and simmer another 5 minutes to form a thick, rustic sauce. Loosen with stock if too dense; the sauce should be spoonable, not watery.
5. 5 Cook the pisarei: bring a large pot of well-salted water to a gentle boil (not a rolling boil — they are delicate). Drop the pisarei in and cook 2–3 minutes; they are done when they float to the surface and feel tender when pinched. Do not overcook or they will fall apart.
6. 6 Drain the pisarei with a slotted spoon and add directly to the bean sauce. Toss gently over low heat for 30 seconds so the pasta absorbs the flavour, adding a splash of pasta water if needed.
7. 7 Serve in warm bowls, topped with grated Parmigiano-Reggiano, a grind of black pepper and a few sage leaves if using. Traditional Piacenza accompaniment is a small glass of Gutturnio wine.