Sauerkraut

German Sauerkraut (Sauerkraut mit Kümmel und Wacholder)

A traditional German lacto-fermented cabbage, salted and packed in its own brine, then gently warmed with caraway seeds and juniper berries. It is the classic sharp, crunchy foil to sausages, pork knuckle, and roast duck.

Prep

45 min

Cook

45 min

Total

90 min

Serves

Makes about 1.5 kg (3 lb 5 oz), serves 6 as a side

Difficulty

Easy

Recipe ingredients

• •1500 g (3 lb 5 oz) white cabbage (about 1 medium-large head), firm, late-season winter cabbage with tight leaves; or null
• •22 g (1 tbsp + 1 tsp) fine non-iodized sea salt or pickling salt, about 1.5% of cabbage weight; iodine inhibits the lactobacilli
• •150 ml (⅔ cup) untreated water, chlorine-free; boiled and cooled or filtered, only if cabbage does not release enough brine
• •2 g (1 tsp) caraway seeds, lightly crushed to release oils; or null
• •1 g (4 to 5) juniper berries, lightly crushed; or null
• •20 g (1½ tbsp) lard, goose fat, or unsalted butter, for braising; lard or goose fat is the most traditional German choice
• •60 ml (¼ cup) dry white wine, beer, or sauerkraut brine, optional, for finishing depth

Steps

1. 1 Sterilize a 2 L (2 qt) crock, glass jar, or food-grade ceramic vessel with boiling water; let it cool completely.
2. 2 Discard the outer wilted leaves of the cabbage. Reserve one or two clean outer leaves for weighting later. Quarter the cabbage, remove the core, and slice as finely as possible (2 mm / 1/16 in) by hand or with a mandoline.
3. 3 In a large non-reactive bowl, toss the sliced cabbage with the salt and crushed caraway. Massage and squeeze firmly for 8 to 10 minutes until the cabbage releases a generous pool of brine and feels limp and wet.
4. 4 Taste a strand: it should taste distinctly salty, like a well-salted soup, not flat. If undersalted, add a pinch more; the salt is what pulls out the brine and protects the ferment.
5. 5 Pack the cabbage into the crock in tight fistfuls, pressing down hard after every handful so the brine rises above the cabbage. Pour in a little of the untreated water only if the juice does not cover the cabbage by at least 2 cm (¾ in).
6. 6 Fold the reserved outer leaves over the surface to cover the cabbage. Place a clean weight (a small plate that fits inside the crock topped with a water-filled jar, or a clean glass weight) on top so the cabbage stays submerged at all times.
7. 7 Cover loosely with a clean cloth or a lid set slightly ajar to let CO₂ escape. Keep at 18 to 22 °C (65 to 72 °F) for 14 to 21 days. Day 2 to 5 it will bubble vigorously; from day 7 bubbles slow and the color turns pale straw. Skim any surface scum daily.
8. 8 Doneness cue for fermentation: taste on day 10. It is ready when pleasantly tart and only mildly salty, with no off-odors. If too soft, ferment 3 to 5 more days. Refrigeration halts the ferment.
9. 9 To serve as a warm side: melt the lard in a heavy pot over medium-low heat. Add the crushed juniper berries and let them sizzle for 20 to 30 seconds.
10. 10 Add 600 g (about 1 lb 5 oz) of the drained sauerkraut and 120 ml (½ cup) of its own brine or the beer or wine. Cover and simmer gently for 25 to 30 minutes; do not boil vigorously or it turns mushy.
11. 11 Taste and adjust salt. The kraut should be tender but still have a slight bite. Serve hot alongside sausages, Schweinshaxe, roast duck, or pork loin.
12. 12 Storage: keep the remaining fermented sauerkraut submerged in its brine in a sealed glass jar in the refrigerator for up to 4 months; it will only get better with time.