Matelote

Matelote de Poisson à la Française

A classic French fisherman's stew from Normandy and Burgundy, matelote unites freshwater fish in a rich wine sauce finished with butter and fresh herbs. The salmon lends silkiness while white fish provide structure.

Prep

25 min

Cook

45 min

Total

70 min

Serves

6

Difficulty

Medium

Recipe ingredients

• •900 g (2 lb) mixed white fish fillets (pike, eel, carp, or perch), skin on if possible
• •450 g (1 lb) salmon fillet, skin removed, cut into chunks
• •60 g (½ cup) unsalted butter, divided
• •2 tbsp olive oil
• •2 (2 medium) shallots, finely diced
• •1 (1 medium) leek, white part only, sliced
• •2 cloves garlic, minced
• •250 ml (1 cup) dry white wine, French, Muscadet or Chablis preferred; a dry vermouth or unoaked Chardonnay is the closest substitute if unavailable
• •125 ml (½ cup) dry red wine, French, Burgundy or Pinot Noir; skip if making the Norman all-white version
• •250 ml (1 cup) fish stock or fumet, homemade preferred
• •1 tbsp tomato paste
• •1 bouquet bouquet garni (parsley stems, thyme, bay leaf)
• •8 small pearl onions, peeled
• •200 g (7 oz) cremini or button mushrooms, quartered
• •30 g (¼ cup) all-purpose flour
• •3 tbsp heavy cream
• •2 tbsp fresh parsley, chopped
• •1 tbsp fresh chervil or thyme leaves
• •1 tsp salt, plus more to taste
• •0.5 tsp (½ tsp) black pepper, freshly ground
• •4 slices baguette, toasted, for serving, rubbed with garlic if desired

Steps

1. 1 Prepare the fish: rinse the white fish and salmon, pat dry, and cut into 5 cm (2 in) chunks. Lightly salt and refrigerate while you build the base.
2. 2 Make a beurre manié: mash 30 g (2 tbsp) of the butter with the flour into a smooth paste; set aside to thicken the stew later.
3. 3 In a wide, heavy pot or Dutch oven, heat the olive oil and 1 tbsp of the butter over medium heat. Add the pearl onions and cook 4 minutes until lightly golden. Add the leek and shallots and sweat 5 more minutes until soft but not browned.
4. 4 Stir in the garlic and tomato paste; cook 1 minute until fragrant and the paste darkens slightly.
5. 5 Pour in both wines and bring to a brisk simmer. Reduce by about one-third, about 5 minutes, to burn off the raw alcohol.
6. 6 Add the fish stock and bouquet garni. Season lightly with salt and pepper. Simmer gently for 10 minutes to meld flavors.
7. 7 Add the mushrooms and simmer 4 minutes more. Using a slotted spoon, lift out the onions and mushrooms and set them aside; keep the liquid at a bare simmer.
8. 8 Slip the firm white fish pieces into the pot first and poach 3 minutes. Add the salmon and poach another 2 to 3 minutes. Fish is done when it flakes easily with a fork and reaches an internal temperature of 63 °C / 145 °F on an instant-read thermometer; the flesh should look opaque and moist, not glassy.
9. 9 Using a slotted spatula, transfer all the fish to a warm serving dish, arranging it gently with the reserved onions and mushrooms. Cover loosely with foil.
10. 10 Bring the cooking liquid back to a low simmer. Whisk in the beurre manié a little at a time until the sauce coats the back of a spoon, about 2 to 3 minutes. Strain through a fine sieve if you prefer a smooth sauce.
11. 11 Lower the heat; whisk in the cream and the remaining 1 tbsp cold butter for a glossy finish. Taste and adjust salt and pepper. Do not let it boil after the cream is added.
12. 12 Pour the sauce over the fish, scatter the chopped parsley and chervil on top, and serve immediately in shallow bowls with the toasted baguette alongside for sopping up the sauce.
13. 13 Note on freshness: matelote must be made the same day with impeccably fresh fish; do not reheat once the fish is added, as the delicate flesh will overcook and fall apart.